I recently had the opportunity to spend a week in Macedonia visiting several of Northern Greece’s finest wineries. While there I met with winemakers, tasted their wines, and became thoroughly immersed in the wonders of Greek life and culture. 

 

Greece is producing exciting wines that are little known outside its borders. In this report, we alert our readers to some of the leading wineries and wines of Northern Greece (Macedonia) —one of several major regions of high quality wine production in the country. Macedonia is a region in quiet ferment (so to speak) with talented winemakers, improved vineyard and winemaking practices, and many new wines made of indigenous and/or international varieties.  Although most wine professionals and enthusiasts are not yet familiar with these wines, I predict that situation will change (perhaps it is changing) as word is getting around about the high quality and reasonable prices of many Greek wines.

 

Macedonia is a large department with northern borders adjacent to Albania, Bulgaria, and the Former Yugoslavian Republic of Macedonia. Southern Macedonia meets the Aegean Sea.  Driving across Macedonia as I did, one notes the varied topography and different microclimates. Western Macedonia is mountainous with a distinct alpine feel while the north and central areas have rolling hills and flat plains with a temperate/Mediterranean climate. According to some observers it offers “a soothing respite from the drama of southern Greece.”   It is also apparent that while agriculture is a major economic activity in Macedonia, and wine has been made in the region for centuries, viticulture is only sporadically visible in some spots.  

 

 Alpha Estate is owned and operated by Angelos Iatrides, a talented and passionate oenologist. Located in Northwestern Macedonia in the district of Florina, Alpha covers 70 acres of vines and has a state-of-the-art winery. The vineyards are situated at about 2200 feet in altitude, with a cool continental climate, tempered by the presence of two large nearby lakes.  The estate was established by Iatrides in 1997, created with the purchase of small patches of land from absentee owners. The estate is planted with both indigenous and foreign varieties. Alpha Estate has an impressive portfolio of red wines that are among the finest in Macedonia and undoubtedly in all of Greece. 

Alpha Estate appears to be one of the only estates producing Pinot Noir in Greece and they are doing an excellent job at it. The 2007 Pinot Noir ($36) 88 is their second vintage and is a big improvement over the first. It is medium –ruby purple and exhibits delicate aromas of cherry and light plum and a silky palate of pure cherry fruit with spice and vanilla notes, good acidity and a long lasting finish. The 2007 Syrah ($38) 90 is beautifully crafted with rich aromas of cassis and blackberry fruit,cedar and light black pepper.  It is a sweetly fruited elegant wine with rounded tannins and excellent balance. Although relatively high in alcohol 14.5 alc. is not jammy. The 2007 Xinomavro ($36) 92 is opaque ruby in color with perfumy dark red berry fruit aromas and a fruit-forward palate of mulberry, pomegranate and toasty oak.  It is velvety smooth with round tannins that are not often found in wines made from this variety.   The 2004 Alpha Estate ($35) 91is a tasty blend of 60% Syrah, 20% Xinomavro, and 20% Merlot. Opaque ruby purple in color, it is rich in plum and black fruit aromas and is soft on the attack with flavors of red and black spicy fruit, notes of chocolate, and earth. It is also nicely concentrated with ripe mature tannins.  

 

The winery has released two limited production wines (5000 bottles) made from experimental varieties from outside of Greece. The first, Alpha One 2005 Montepulciano ($48) 90  is made from sundried fruit and has a dried plum  compote /dried fig character that is thoroughly delicious. The wine also offers excellent concentration, beautiful balance, and has soft round tannins. The Alpha One 2006 Tannat ($48) is a French-inspired bottling, opaque ruby in color with aromas of black fruit, and complex and concentrated flavors of black berry, bacon fast, oak, tar, and graphite. The wine’s tannins are ripe yet firm. 

Alpha Estate produces two major whites. The Alpha 2008 Whiteis made of 100% Sauvignon Blancand offers fragrant aromas of ripe melon and pear with a touch of lime citrus. It is beautifully balanced with good acidity and a long finish.  The Omega White 2007 ($30) isa blend of 85% Gewürztraminer and Malagousia. It offers fresh leeches nuts and rose petal aromas with ripe fruit flavors such as guava and pineapple on the palate and some residual sugar.   Importer: Diamond Importers, Chicago, IL (773) 549-6211