Greece's Northern Territory: Project Xinomavro
May, 2009
… One fascinating development is the emergence of great, little Xinomavro boutiques, wineries like Alpha Estate… These are folks who are taming the rustic tendencies of the grape. There is a risk, to be sure, that they will also create that “old style” versus “new style” dichotomy we see in Piedmont. At the moment, everything is still in development, and there are virtues to all visions. Alpha Estate’s Xinomavro is so elegant it sometimes seems more reminiscent of Pinot Noir. The owners say the style is different because the Amyndeon terroir is different than Naoussa, likely to produce more red fruit, less tannin.
ALPHA ESTATE (Amyndeon)
This fine little boutique is poised to become one of Greece’s best red wine producers. Although they experimented with many international grapes, including Syrah and Pinot Noir, the old vines Xinomavro (300 cases, about 50% made from very old vines in excess of 50 years) is superb and a harbinger of special things to come.